Four weeks ago four other Health PCVs and I embarked on a trip the the South of Madagascar. The purpose: to stop along the way and educate other Education Volunteers’ classrooms about HIV/AIDS, STIs and condom use. We would end our trip in Fort Dauphin, which just so happens to be paradise, and spend the bulk of our trip there, for a week, educating and discussing at roughly 15 different classrooms, of high school and university level.
We start our trip in Fianarantsoa, which is in the South Central Highlands where the five of us gather a few days before we depart and gather materials and plan out the logistics and not-so-much-logistics of our trip. At this point we are all really excited; preparing posters and materials for games.
We make our trip down south with our first stop in Ambalavao, Amber’s site, where we educate her three high school classes and help out at one of her English Club meetings. All of the classes we attended were two hours long, but once we got going, time really did fly. We presented the information; the main purpose of the trip was to educate students about the importance of HIV/AIDS, the myths about it, transmission, protection and prevention. We did so in a way that was fun and visually appealing. Posters describing the life cycle of AIDS, games where we blew up condoms as if they were balloons and placed a true/false statement in each and the students had to pop the condom and read the statement and decide if it was true or false. There is such a stigma about using condoms in this country that we wanted to let the students know that condoms are a serious matter but that they shouldn’t be scared of them either. It was surprising that most of the students, mostly the university level, mentioned that using a condom was like ‘Eating candy with the wrapper still attached.’ My response was, ‘Would you rather eat the candy with the wrapper still attached or swallow the candy and die?’ The rate of syphilis in this country is astounding with about 50% of all Malagasy people infected. This is due to the lack of condom use and the stigma against them. Most of the teachers said we got through to the kids and it was effective, I can only hope that the information provided they will utilize.
After two days in Ambalavao we head south again, to Ihosy…

the landscape on the national road to Ihosy
spending just a night at John’s site where we debriefed for a few hours and spoke about improvements that could be made and recommendations on the lesson. Mind you, we are not doing all this travel in a luxurious four door SUV with air conditioning, no no. We are all cramped in a taxi-brousse or bush-taxi, if you will. It’s ridiculously hot, flys swarming around everyone, random Malagasy people putting their arms around your shoulders; it just makes me smile. My life surely isn’t boring…at least that is what I tell myself. As you can see the road to Ihosy is everything but a road…a dusty, clay path is more like it. It was beautiful and easy to get through.
Our night in Ihosy, John makes for us a very crispy and juicy lemon pepper chicken. When we hear this, our taste buds start to juice…lemon pepper chicken, in Madagascar?! ‘Yea’ he says. ‘I have a guy that I buy prepared chicken from.’ Now coming from a small village, you start to appreciate previously prepared chicken, because if and only if I want to eat chicken I have to slaughter it myself – which can take anywhere from 2 to 3 hours…I’m not a pro. You can see I have to be determined and really want to eat chicken to prepare one, so getting on his bike to get previously seasoned pieces of chicken was definitely worth it. Thanks John.
We get up in the morning, make some grilled cheese sandwiches and head out. The brousse decides to pick us all up at John’s house which is very nice of them. John is one of few ‘vazaha’ or foreigner or white person that lives in the town so they obviously know where five white people will be staying. We get on the brousse and head south to Betroka.
There is not a PCV in Betroka so we spend a few hours there, in the pouring rain, being told we cannot leave until this afternoon or two days from then. We clearly wait around some more, talking to more brousse drivers and figuring out when we will be leaving. We finally get a brousse and leave.
Little did we know, we wouldn’t reach our next destination for two more days; Ambovombe. These two days were the most labor intensive days I’ve had yet in this country. Every 20 or so minutes we had to get out of the brousse because it got stuck in the sand, the road was ruined and we had to repair it, we ran out of gas, and so on and so forth. It was nice because the other people in the brousse we all a family. Grandfather, and his older children along with their older children. For those two days we became a part of their family, sharing watermelon and mangoes.
When we do finally get to Ambovombe we meet up with Paul and stay with him for a night. At this point, we are all exhausted, hungry, dirty, tired, annoyed and anything else you can think of, place here __________. Paul, the kind fellow that he is, has purchased a goat for us and that we would be having a feast at our arrival. The goat was deliciously tender and juicy.

Goat feast
We leave the following morning and head to Fort Dauphin – where we will be spending the most time, and little did we know, a lot of money. Fort Dauphin is paradise in my book…

the beautiful Libanona Beach in Fort Dauphin
We spend a week there at a Peace Corps Volunteer bungalow overlooking the crashing waves on the rocks below. For easy sleeping arrangements, I brought my hammock with a mosquito net attached and suspended it between two trees, by a clearing of land, that ended in a cliff again overlooking the Indian Ocean. Not a bad place to sleep, woke up everyday for a week and stretched my arms and breathed the most fresh air that could fill my lungs at that moment.
In Fort Dauphin we went to 3 university classes and 5 high school classes. Surprisingly, when we discussed HIV/AIDS one university student had a pretty alarming statement. He said that AIDS does not exist and it was a ploy for medicine companies to make money…and that AIDS came from America. When asked where he heard this information he said from a doctor, and he also said he was talking to this doctor at a bar. Enough said right. Well he was still convinced that America came up with AIDS and that AIDS equals Africa. Partly AIDS has its origins in Africa and as there are many assumptions on where it came from: SIV (Simian Immunodeficiency Virus) came from monkeys when farmers were clearing out land in Africa for farming and they disrupted the habitats of sick monkeys and thus the spread of HIV/AIDS began. But who really knows. It was interesting to find out what African’s think of HIV/AIDS, and if this is what the majority believes.
Fort Dauphin is a beautiful city with everything you could possibly need. Fresh oysters on the shore, friendly people, but again for the beauty of it comes poverty and filth. There is an area of the beach, far from where we spent most of our time, where the locals just dumped trash onto the rocks by the shoreline. This doesn’t surprise me. Being a Third World country Madagascar and it’s people have more things to worry about then environmental protection, but this does hand-in-hand with their health, and one reason why Madagascar remains one of the top ten poorest countries in the world. Also the beach we went to was beautiful in it’s own right but you can’t help but glance over at the leaf huts in the distance and the people living inside with nothing but rice to eat and a straw mat to lay their heads at night. This trip was an amazing experience and I was glad I was apart of it and am fortunate enough to get to see such a wide array of Madagascar…it really is a beautiful country.
When our trip came to a close and we were all packed, having a reservation for the brousse to leave at 6am, the girls get to the brousse station about 30 mins earlier and give us, three boys, a phone call. Don’t bother coming to the station…the brousse isn’t leaving yet…the roads are horrible, or shall we say the road WAS horrible now it’s just a path with ditches unpassable by any mode of transportation. We go back to bed and think about how long we are stuck in paradise. Fort Dauphin is beautiful, yes, but being stuck there drains you just a bit. We went to the beach everyday waiting for a brousse to leave. And finally after two days of waiting and sitting, and going to the beach we head out of Fort Dauphin and make it back to Fianar, where we reconvene and relax.
The trip was an amazing experience and the traveling was quite the adventure as well. I do have to say one thing though, this made me feel like a Real Peace Corps Volunteer. We traveled around the country, educating people that don’t normally have a Peace Corps Volunteer at their site, a Health PCV for that matter. And making them aware of issues that surround them everyday and get a little spark going in their heads. So all in all, the trip was a success but what I did learn was this: Hint: Traveling during rainy season does not make sense.
Oh yea and I forgot to mention I learned how to surf and also met this awesome, interesting Rastafarian who gave me some wax so I can dread my hair, eventually.
I leave you with this picture of surfboards…the hat is mine and that is the board I used. I also leave you with this picture of me smiling on the rocks with the Indian Ocean in the background. It’s Irie here…no worries man.

relaxing

It's all Irie in these parts
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